About 100km east of Tbilisi, where the paved roads end and the half-desert begins, an entire city of faith is carved into a sandstone cliff face. This is David Gareja — a 1,500-year-old rock-hewn monastery complex that remains one of the most remote and extraordinary places in the Caucasus. If you have even a passing interest in Georgia beyond its wine and food, put this on your list.
A City of Faith Carved into the Desert
David Gareja is not a single building but a sprawling complex of 19 monasteries and roughly 5,000 monk cells, all cut directly into the soft sandstone of Mount Gareja. The community was founded in the 6th century by St. David Garejeli, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers who came from Syria to bring Christianity to the wilds of eastern Georgia. The name “Gareja” itself comes from the Georgian word for “wilderness.”
The most visited section is the Lavra Monastery, where hundreds of cave rooms — small chapels, refectories, libraries, even bakeries — are stacked in tiers along the cliff face. Walking inside, you can still see the original frescoes, niches, and stone furniture used by the monks 15 centuries ago. The upper Udabno Monastery sits right on the border with Azerbaijan and has had restricted access since 2019, so check current conditions before you go.
Rainbow Hills: A Desert That Paints Itself
Beyond the monastery, the Rainbow Hills (also called Rainbow Mountains) put on a display you don’t expect in this part of the world. Layered sedimentary rock, laid down millions of years ago when this region was covered by sea, has been eroded into rolling hills striped in green, orange, red, and violet. It is one of Georgia’s most photogenic hidden spots and an easy hour-long walk from the Lavra parking area.
David Gareja is doable as a long day trip from Tbilisi, but plan your season carefully. Summer (July–August) can hit 40°C with no shade, and winter brings biting wind. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are by far the most comfortable windows for walking and photography.
Practical Information
- Entrance fee: Free (Lavra Monastery, as of 2026)
- Opening hours: Open daily, daylight hours recommended
- Distance from Tbilisi: ~100–110km, 1h 30min–2h by car
- By bus: The “Gareji Line” departs Ortachala bus station in Tbilisi daily at 11:00, 25 GEL one-way (~$9.40)
- Guided tour: Day tours from $21 to $42 per person
- Exchange: 1 USD ≈ 2.65 GEL (June 2026)
- Dress code: Shoulders and knees covered; women should bring a scarf for entering the cave chapels
- Time needed: 8–10 hours round trip from Tbilisi
If you want to feel the spiritual depth and the wild, quiet side of Georgia in a single day, David Gareja is hard to beat. Walking through caves lit by candles and looking out over a desert that has held monks in silence for fifteen centuries is an experience that stays with you long after you return to the wine bars of Tbilisi.
